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Ok, so I just put my GS5billion back together and went to check the valve clearances since she was apart already.  Three of the four valves were either within spec or just outside my measurement range (don't have the metric feelers).  But the fourth (exhaust valve on #1 cylinder) was 10x the maximum clearance

I just knew this couldn't be right, so I fooled with the bucket to get the shim out...when trying to rotate it so that the notch was in a better spot for me to pry up the shim, the bucket popped up a little, but still was not allowing the valve to close completely.  Even with all the fidgeting I could think of I couldn't get the bucket to raise all the way back up   I didn't think to try any kind of lubricant since I figured the oil would be enough.  So I put everything back together and tried starting the engine jsut for the hell of it.  Of course there was no compression on that cylinder, but I put my finger over the spark plug hole and turned the engine over to make sure.  No dice I gave up for the night at that point. 

Now the bike had been sitting with the stator cover off while I waited for parts (2-3 months), so I don't know if that was enough time to allow some corrosion between the bucket and the head  I read about someone else finding that both of their exhaust buckets were out of round after looking to see why he didn't have any compression, but I don't know what could lead to this.  The bike was running pretty well before I parked her to mess with the starter clutch, so I'm inclined to believe that it's got something to do with sitting there. 

I'm thinking about just pulling the head off (apparently it's possible to do it without removing the engine, but we'll see) but I thought I'd run it by you folks to see what other ideas are out there.  I've had the bottom end of an engine apart before, but not the top end...but I ain't skurred  I just want to ride the bike sooner rather than later...

So ideas, opinions, comments, insults, whatever - I wanna hear em

GO!

 http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=40446.0

 Thanks man, that's one of the threads that led me to the idea of pulling the head off...but I don't wanna

 no more ideas?  bueller?  dillo?

well.... with cars PB blaster will usually free the valve up. what you do is spray some on the valve then use the starter to kick the motor over a few times, rinse and repeat untill it comes free. I've done this on two cars (stuck valves are rare) no problems in the long run. you can turn the motor over without the cover on, just lay a towel across it to catch the little bit of oil, turn it off a few seconds after it starts. i usually run a little (1/2Q) of marvel oil in it untill the next change. oh uh, change the oil after it starts... i dont think PB blaster is good for a motor. you can use WD40 instead of PB, but PB works muuuuuuch better than WD40 (just try it!) You can get that stuff anywhere btw ( car parts houses).

 Again, i've never done this on a bike but i don't see any problems really, just change the oil after.

but the real question is... is it stuck or bent?

Lawson21117:

but the real question is... is it stuck or bent?

I can't see how it would be bent...my cam chain was never moved (it's shim over bucket, so I don't have to mess with the camshaft to pull the shims for an adjustment) and it ran pretty well before I parked it for the other issue.  But I definitely can't completely rule it out.

Thanks for the hints, I'll give the PB blaster a shot when I get a chance.  I really appreciate it!